If you’ve ever developed a roll of film, then you know the special kind of feeling that hits when you open your email inbox and see the subject line “Your film photos are ready”.
But, there’s another feeling you might be familiar with too – one that doesn’t feel so great. The disappointment when you open that email, only to find that your film photos didn’t turn out quite the way you’d hoped. If you’re lucky, maybe it was just one or two that didn’t turn out. But, in the worst cases, it’s the entire roll.
Either way, it’s not a fun feeling to experience. But film mistakes are just the name of the game, and, oftentimes, going through them is how we learn.
I’ve been taking film photos for about five years now, and I’ve made my fair share of film photography mistakes. Today, I’m sharing what I’ve learned in hopes that it will save you from making these same ones. But I also believe that sometimes we need to make our own mistakes because, if we let them, they can shape us for the better. Even if nothing else, I hope reading this makes you feel less alone and gives you that “OMG, yes, I’ve done the same thing” moment.
6 Film Photography Mistakes (& How to Avoid Them)
Light Leaks
This was one of the first film photography mistakes I ever made. The good news about this mistake, though, is that it can actually be viewed as an artistic choice. So, if you experience light leaks, don’t completely rule it out as a negative thing (pun intended) 😉
What causes light leaks?
A light leak is caused when a gap in your camera allows outside light to “leak” in and partially expose the film inside. This extra light usually results in bright areas or streaks across the photo.
Most of the time, light leaks are a result of one of two things:
- A worn or damaged camera seal
- Opening the camera door while exposed film is inside (whether accidental or intentional)
How to avoid light leaks:
If you suspect this is a film camera error due to worn seals, inspect the foam strips around your camera’s film door. Those strips create a light-tight seal, so if they’re deteriorating or crumbly, they need replacing.
Thankfully, this is the one mistake that almost always turns out in my favor, so can we even call it a mistake?
Overexposed and Underexposed Film
Getting the right exposure can be a total learning curve, and if your camera doesn’t have a built-in light meter or it doesn’t work, it can really be a guessing game when you’re just starting out.
Thankfully, there are other options (like following the Sunny 16 rule or using an external light meter – I use this app) to help you know whether you’re properly exposing your film photos.
But back to the main topic. What’s the difference between overexposed and underexposed film?
Overexposed Film
Overexposed film occurs when your film is exposed to too much light. As a result, your photos will appear overly bright or washed out. The result is blown-out areas and a loss of detail in the lighter spots.
If you find that you’re constantly overexposing your images, try using a faster shutter speed or a smaller aperture (higher f-stop, like f16-f22). Another option is to use a lower ISO film.
Underexposed Film
Underexposed film, on the other hand, occurs when your film doesn’t receive enough light. The result is a dark image where shadow details are lost, often appearing muddy or lacking contrast. Grain also tends to be more visible in underexposed areas.
This, by far, is the most common film mistake I’ve made. The latest film camera I acquired (a Nikon F2AS) requires the lens to be fitted in a specific way – something I only took the time to learn after shooting a handful of rolls and continuing to get mixed results.
I also tend to intentionally underexpose my images by 1 stop a lot more than I overexpose them. The reason is that underexposed images are easier to recover in editing than overexposed ones. Generally speaking, one or two stops of over/underexposure won’t hurt your photo too much and can be intentional or corrected.
If you’re consistently underexposing, try a slower shutter speed, wider aperture (lower f-stop like f/1.4-f/4), or higher ISO film.
Blank Roll
This next film photography mistake is the one that hurt my heart the most. I can still feel the sting of realizing that all the images and memories I had tried to document were nonexistent.
A little backstory.
I was about a full year into shooting film and finally felt like I was starting to get the hang of things. That summer, I was living in LA and did a lot of exploring and photographing. I specifically remember my birthday trip to Malibu, complete with beach walks and boardwalk games, and I was SO excited to get those photos back. But unfortunately, the roll came back empty, and every photographed memory from that trip was gone.
Let’s just say this is a film photography mistake that I will never make again.
What causes a film roll to come back blank?
The most common reason a film roll comes back blank is that it was not properly loaded onto the spool. The film never advances, even though you are winding and clicking the shutter. This is exactly what happened to me.
Other causes can be a broken shutter or severe underexposure, though most film photographers will tell you that improper loading is the most common reason.
How to avoid blank rolls:
To check if your film is loading properly, watch the rewind knob as you advance the film – it should rotate slightly with each advance. If it doesn’t move or the film isn’t catching on the spool, you’ll need to reload it.
Half Frames
I’ve gotten a handful of half frames over the years, but I don’t really consider these film photo mistakes. To me, they’re more like bonus photos.
Most half frames occur when you’ve loaded a new roll and are advancing the first couple of frames. I typically like to snap a photo of the same subject 3 or 4 times to ensure the first few exposed frames have a chance to pass through. Sometimes this results in the first photos only being partially exposed – aka a half frame.
Half frames can also occur on the last photo of a roll, so if you shoot for any length of time, this is one type of photo you’ll likely encounter.
Overlapping Frames
This next film photography mistake is another example of something that can be a mistake or an intentional artistic choice.
Overlapping frames are just what they sound like: two separate images showing up on top of each other in a single frame. Sometimes the images overlap fully, while other times, it’s only a half frame that overlaps.
Overlapping Half-Frames
Half-frame overlaps most commonly occur due to film advancement error. It’s a spacing issue that is caused when the gears in your camera do not advance the correct distance when you wind the film lever.
A half overlap can also occur when trying to take a double exposure, but the film simply didn’t advance far enough. If you find that your frames are overlapping consistently, however, you may need to take your camera in for repair.
Overlapping Full-Frames
Full overlapping frames occur when two images are taken within the same frame. When intentionally done, this is called a double exposure image and can result in some really cool and interesting compositions.
However, different cameras have different advancement methods, so in my case, with my Rolleicord III, this is a film mistake I can simply chalk up to forgetfulness. Because I don’t shoot with this camera very often, I can never remember if I advanced the film before or after the shot. In the examples below, I inevitably wound up taking multiple photos on the same frame. Oh well, I still think those shots are pretty cool.
Stress Marks
Stress marks happen when you don’t release the film tension before rewinding. The film gets too tight, causing it to curve and leaving marks on your shots.
This film photography mistake was pretty annoying for me – especially as it involved yet another birthday film photo mishap. It occurred with one of the first rolls I shot on my Nikon F2AS. I remember not understanding why the film was so difficult to wind. Turns out I hadn’t released the film fully before winding. I didn’t think much of it and had no idea the effect it would have until I got my photos back and the technician explained what had likely happened. This one wasn’t the camera’s fault – just like most of these film photography mistakes, the fault was mine.
How to avoid stress marks:
Always press the film release button before rewinding your film. This releases the tension and allows the film to rewind smoothly without damage. If you feel any tension while winding your film, stop and try the release button again.
Expired Film
This last one isn’t necessarily a mistake. I’m just including it because when I first started out, I didn’t know film had an expiration date (or what that meant for the photo). The first 2 or 3 rolls I ever shot were on expired film that I had acquired with my first film camera – the Pentax K1000. Looking back, shooting expired film is not a bad way to start; however, it’s also not the most reliable. With expired film, it can be hard to know if your results are due to exposure issues or just the film’s age. It can be a fun way to get creative, though. Just try to have lower expectations and be open to whatever results.
I’m sure as long as I am shooting film, I’ll make many more film photography mistakes. Maybe some will turn into beautiful accidents, and, no doubt, others will feel devastating. No matter what, though, I hope I continue to learn from them and use that knowledge to keep creating more.
If you could relate to one (or a few) of these film photo mistakes, know you’re not alone. Thanks for reading, and happy photographing 🙂
Leave a Reply